February in Baja - Part IV Todos Santos, BCS

Have decided to spend several days in the art / fishing colony of Todos Santos, about an hour north of Cabo San Lucas on the Pacific Coast. 

Riding up the coastal highway, spotted what at first I thought was a vineyard, 

turns out to be a tomato farm. Of course, Mexican Salsa is better known than Mexican wines.

What is claimed to be the inspiration for the song by the Eagles,

Hotel California in Todos Santos. The songwriter lyrics refer to drug addiction, "This could be heaven or this could be hell".  Today Todos Santos is more a lively tourist destination with leather, jewelry and artisan shops lining the streets than anything illegal going on.

A sidestreet lunch of black bean soup with cream and a side of guacamole and chips. 

Rode out to an active fishing / beach, that was recommended by a local,  El Faro. (The lighthouse).

Most boats were still out, but families were enjoying the beach inspite of the chill in the air and water.

Locals remained fishing until it was too dark to see to bait the hooks.

Returned very early the next morning to watch the fishermen start a new day at sea.

The moon reflects on the boats waiting for their crews.

Launching the first boat, everyone pitches in. 

The first boat is tied to a second boat to be pulled off the beach. 

The second boat then pulls the third in, etc, etc until every boat is launched. 

There is no dock here, they work off the sand.

The night before I watched as they brought their boats in. Gunning the motor full blast for maximum speed before hitting the sandy beach, sliding up on it with the propeller spinning wide open. 

Everyone yelled and stood back when a boat came ashore.

Once on the beach, a panel flapping, salt rusted, truck hooks up a rope to pull the boat to a higher level so they can unload the day's catch. There were several small refrigerated trucks waiting to ice down the fish and deliver them to their next destination. In all, a smooth operation as this is their daily routine.

The sun illuminates boats waiting to go out another day.

El Faro beach, Todos Santos, BCS

That's all from down here today. Tomorrow is a new day, new opportunities, new roads to ride.

Stay safe, ride far my friends

CCjon

February in Baja - Part III San Jose del Cabo

The sunset over the Sea of Cortez in La Paz was spectacular.

After sunset, came the typical Saturday night life in a Mexican city. Street vendors, balloon vendors, food carts, young people flirting and dating, older folks enjoying the fresh night air. A festive atmosphere...

Next day we stopped at the Tropic of Cancer milepost for a group photo opportunity. Eight riders, plus our guide Fernando and our support driver Brad.

The required wide angle shot of bikes and riders?

We detoured into El Triunfo, a small village that is re-invetnting itself as a weekend destination spot. Older buildings are being renovated and restored.

The grandparents are setting up their roadside queso and chorizo stand for the weekend travelers

(cheese and sausage).

PAX, this small building, though renovated, was being used as a storeroom by the restaurant 

across the street.

A cobblestone sidestreet in El Triunfo. 

Years ago, El Triunfo was a small gold mining community. 

When the gold played out, most of the people left.

Our final destination, Posada Real Hotel & Resort in San Jose del Cabo, on the southern tip of Baja California Sur. Cabo San Lucas is a little further south and west, much larger and more crowded that San Jose.

The main road between San Jose and Cabo is being developed at a rapid rate. Saw several large resort properties, hotels and condos being built. 

Spending your winters in Baja and summers back north has an appeal to a lot of folks. The same appeal Florida, Arizona, and south Texas have. Very comfortable in the winter months and too darn hot in the summer.

Our group safely arrived in San Jose del Cabo. Fernando, our MotoQuest guide and Brad our support vehicle driver made sure when we started with eight riders, eight arrived. A very successful ride, no accidents, no incidents, very relaxing and peaceful. Though we did eat our way south, stuffing ourselves with fresh fish and shrimp tacos at every meal. After which was followed by long discourses on which establishment had the better tacos. 

By tours end, the improvement in everyone's riding skills was evident. We all learned to read Mexican driver's intentions by how they and the vehicle were moving. 

Everyone in the group learned a few new Spanish words, learned when to use it and how to pronounce it. 

In all, was a great group of riders with a common interest in learning more about Mexico and Baja besides riding two or three wheels.

This wrangler is trying to convince people it is easier to ride horseback on the sand than walk on it. 

He might be right as soft sand is not easy walking.

Will be here in San Jose and Todos Santos for a few days relaxing 

before starting back north with a new group of friends.

CCjon

February in Baja - Part II Loreto

Leaving San Ignacio we ride to Santa Rosalia, an dirty, industrial town on the Sea of Cortez. Here we stop at the famous church designed by the person who designed the Effiel Tower. Is rare in Mexico to see an all steel church. 

The church front with pressed steel panels

The interior...

Then there are long, very long, stretches of riding over desert floors and rocky ridges. Long straight ribbons of highway interrupted with groups of tight twisties to get over over a rocky ridge. 

By midmorning we need a refreshment break, coffee or soda.  MotoQuest has a strict rule, anyone who has an alcoholic drink before the day's riding ends, gets their bike loaded on the chase vehicle's trailer and they ride in the truck the rest of the day. Great group, no one has broken the rule. Just keeping it safe for everyone. 

A roadside Loncheria, burritos, tacos, quesadias, pan...

Spotted an interesting broom being used to sweep up leaves on the sidewalk. Take a closer look. 

It's a palm frond. That's being economical... and practical.

A BIG sweep.

Came a round a bend and two burros were blocking my way. They did not want to move, so we had a Mexican Stand Off.  Can you hear the whistling music from The Good, Bad and the Ugly?

Finally dismounting, they saw I was taller than them so they moseyed off into the brush. 

My burro of steel is running great. No problems, handles the straights and the twists with ease. It did not care for Mexican regular octane fuel as it started pinging. Went back to premium whenever I find it, the pinging stopped. 

After a few twists and turns, located the well known mission in Mulege'.  The caretaker said it's only open when the Parrish priest comes, once a week... or less. 

A few more missed turns, finally landed in front of the old stone church in Loreto. It's in town but with their one way streets, I could see it but not get to it. Found an alley way to sneak in.

And finally worked our way to the Country Club resort for the night. No one can say that MotoQuest does not give you the best accommodations on their tours.

Doesn't this look more like Morocco than Mexico?    Yes they do grow dates here.

Sat out by the pool typing away on this blog, eating a Club Sandwich. Sorry, took a few bites before remembering to get a photo. Evidence that the day's riding is over is the half empty margarita glass.

My view from under the poolside canopy. That's the Sea of Cortez in the distance.

The next day, Saturday, we ride 232 miles to La Paz. The longest straightest roads so far. Had an energy drink to make sure I stayed awake.

In a small cafe along the La Paz beach front,  Frida was our waitress. Gerald, one of my riding friends, and Frida hit it off instantly. Gerald cannot say no to anyone. Has a huge smile and generous to a fault.

Frida wanted to sit on the sidecar rig. When I agreed, she whipped off the apron and jumped on.

Thought was a fair exchange for the beautiful grilled chicken sandwich she brought to my table. 

Okay, here' s your food art shot for today. 

Hey you see, I CAN take a better photo of food...

if I don't take a bite first.

One of our riders commented that he thought we are on an eating tour, interrupted with occasional motorcycle riding...  Might be! Maybe more to life than fish or shrimp tacos...  five times a day.

The maestro who made that beautiful sandwich? Caught him in the kitchen flipping pizza dough for another customer. Very talented people, friendly, smiling, preparing great food and making everyone feel welcome.

That's not a giant taco he's flying. The stone oven behind him is for the pizza. 

We are settled into our La Paz waterfront hotel. Bikes are parked for the night, happy hour is starting.

The view out the front door of my room...

 Yeah, hmmmm, well...

 you know motorcycle tours can be rough, dirty, sweaty, 

giving us that smelly biker reputation. 

Or they can be...

I'll close my door on that thought, see you on down the road. 

We are not at end of this Baja thing quite yet...

There will be a few days relaxing in and around Cabo 

before making the return ride north later next week. 

So more, much more to come.

Stay safe and ride far my friends.

CCjon

p.s. if you think riding Baja is a rare dangerous adventure, we are seeing dozens of bikes from the US and Canada down here.  It's safer than you read. Every native we have met is friendly and welcoming. Some towns are more insistent on everybody wearing masks in public. No big issue, roll with it and enjoy the atmosphere and the warming sun.

February in Baja - Crossed at Tecate

While Texas was under a winter cold blast, I headed down to Cabo San Lucas with a group of riders with MotoQuest, an Alaska/California based motorcycle tour company. Amparo liked the idea of my traveling with a support group, I was okay with that too as it removes any stress with where to spend the night, what to do if the rig breaks down in the middle of the Mexican desert, etc., etc...

Looking back at the Pacific Ocean as we leave the Los Angeles basin early Sunday morning.

Our first night was in Julian, California, a town of great pies and chilly mornings.

Second day we crossed into Mexico at Tecate, a small border crossing. 

Fuel can be an issue in Mexico so we filled up when possible.

And if you forget to get gas at the last PEMEX station, there are roadside vendors at strategic crossroads waiting to sell you a few gallons.

After having lunch in Ensenada, we crossed the mountains to the Sea of Cortez side,

 spending our first night in Mexico in San Felipe.

San Felipe is an active, vibrant community of the water.  People, restaurants, bars and modest motels here.

Leaving San Felipe,  we followed the coast south along

the Sea of Cortez,  also known as Gulf of California.

Part of the group gather for a photo stop

stopping for lunch in Alfasino. Great seafood tacos, the best so far.

Was low tide so the fisherman who overslept will have to wait until the next high tide.

Our third night was in Bahia de Los Angeles, 

still on the Sea of Cortez, a very small sleepy fishing town. The total opposite of San Felipe.

Here you had to look to find anyone or an open business, feels deserted.

The next day we crossed back over the mountains to the Pacific side, having lunch in Guerrrero Negro before proceeding south thru the desert to San Ignacio where we will spend two nights. 

What you will not see posted here are photos of the border crossing nor the military check points we encountered. Photos are prohibited. No problems, many young soldiers just curious about the sidecar.

Seeking whatever shade can be found to rest a minute in the desert.

San Ignacio is a small village, but is near the whale wintering grounds 

(can you call a whale nursery bay grounds?)

Where we will have dinner tonight, Rancho Grande on the town plaza.

You can see in the photo how warm it is here. Am glad we are here in February and not in August.

The Mission San Ignacio

The Mission's main alter,

note the hand laid stone floor.

Riding a motorcycle and talking on your cell phone at the same time is quite a feat.

A side street in San Ignacio

And a final black & white shot in San Ignacio to complete this posting.

More to come as the trip continues south,

to San Jose del Cabo at the southern tip of Baja.

Ride safe, Ride south, 

think fish tacos, cold margartitas

CCjon