Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts

Thursday, February 15, 2024

Barbudos de Castilla y León (Spanish Bearded Men)


Barbudos de Castilla y León
Bearded Spanish Men of Castile and León)

 

The greatest obstacle to taking great street portraits is not gear, training, or even opportunity. It is something larger, more petrifying, more difficult to confront… that overwhelming dread that stunts us, that holds us back from realizing our potential…  our fear of rejection!

 

As humans we all fear rejection, What if they say No?  What if they get mad… even yell?  What if…what if.. what if… and the world moves on as we stew.

 

Our natural inclination is to shy away from asking complete strangers on the street if we can take their picture. There will be no rejection if we never ask. But then how will we ever get better?

 

W. Clement Stone, a well-known motivational speaker, said, “Thinking will not overcome fear, but action will.” That action was what I was determined to take in 2023. Once and for all conquer my fear of asking strangers for their photo.


***   ***   ***

 

Last Fall in Spain, three men told me No when I asked to take their picture. The next one hundred and ninety men agreed or did not stop me from taking their photograph. What you see here today are select images from those one hundred and ninety that resulted by taking action to conquer an old fear.

 

Some are young men with dark beards, others older gentlemen with grey hairs shining through. Some men stopped and posed for a photograph while other images were caught as the men carried on their daily business. In all, this distinguished group represents a portion of the real men of Spain, no actors, no models, no politicians, no fake machismo. All real and admirable.


The bearded men targeted for a photo were those who displayed pride in their facial hair. Making it easy to quickly exclude those who looked like they had forgotten to shave for a week. Clean shaven men and ladies were ignored. Next time ladies...
 
These Spanish men were accepting and open to being photographed by a stranger in the street. The overall experience was positive and meeting so many wonderful people in Valladolid was enjoyable. I can highly recommend that any street photographer should experience firsthand the welcoming nature of the Spanish people.  

These images captured a thread of a story about the rich visual heritage and culture 
of the Spanish men with beards. Take a look...


...starting with the younger men...









Men with that seafaring look...
though we are far from the sea.


His red beard...


Coffee break for the businessman...

The barber from Bilbao....

Bicycles are common on the pedestrian streets...

Jealous of their flowing locks of hair...


His daily bread...


The bakery chef...

Smoking is still common in Spain...





El abuelo (grandfather)...



Best of friends for many years...

The professor...


If you recognize any of these men, let them know I kept my word.
 Their images are now published for the world to see. 

Obviously, I could not use all 190 images.  Nevertheless, these represent a varied cross-section of the wonderful bearded men I met. These photos will be included in a showing this Fall in Houston.

I plan to return once more to Valladolid in northern Spain for a different photography challenge. 
Maybe we'll meet over a cup of coffee.

Ride safe, ride long

CCjon

Thursday, November 30, 2023

VALLADOLID, SPAIN - WRAP UP

Here are a few photos from Valladolid that did not fit in with the other stories.

How could you not enjoy being here when you walk out your front door to see this?
The Universidad de Derecho (Law University) administration and classroom building 
just across the street. You immediately know, this isn't Kansas.



As I made my morning walk in the City Centre, I quickly figured out 
that an open door was an invitation to come in. 
So frequently I did...



Was also frequently surprised at what lie inside. 

On a narrow sidestreet was the open entrance to Valldolid's first luxury shopping mall, 
Pasaje Gutierrez. It was built in 1886 with iron trusses, iron roof, gas lights, and glass skylights.  
Maybe a dozen shops in here. Most today serve as a cafe, bar, art gallery or travel office.



Then there are these small pleasant surprises scattered throughout the old city centre.
Fountains and bronze sculptures commemorating... what?
This one is called "The Traveler".



As I rounded the corner of the old cathedral, this combination of centuries-old stonework, 
a clear blue sky, the modern construction crane, the faded colors... grabbed my eye.

Nothing in particular to look at, no focal point, yet the scene was somehow attractive. 
Maybe it was the open gate inviting me in...



My favorite street in all of Valladolid for photography
Calle Santo Domingo de Guzmán.
Behind the high wall on the right is the Cloistered Convent de Santa Catalina.



This Spanish chef kept turning away as I tried to take his photo.  This was the best I could do. 
Even returned a few days later to try again, only to find out he had quit.


Why was the chef's photo so important?
 While in Valladolid, I was working on a photo project called "Barbudos de España", 
(Bearded Men of Spain).

 By the end of our stay, I had photographed over 180 different men with beards. Not the straggly unshaven look, but beards that are carefully groomed, shaped, that reflect the man's personality.

Once back home, I'll cull and edit the images, selecting the top dozen or so for an exhibition next Fall.

This is an example of one of the photos from the project that did not make the first cut, 
though I love the baby's expression.

A common Spanish street scene, a grandparent pushing a baby carriage, 
an elderly gentleman with a cane, two young university students.
We saw quite a few baby carriages and walking canes while in Spain. 
What does that tell you?



After numerous attempts over the years, nuns and novice nuns simply refuse to be photographed. 
Luck came my way as I captured a rare portrait that is impossible to plan. I happened to have my camera waist-high, watching children play, when a novice nun stepped out of the convent to sweep the stoop. 
A slight turn with a quick click, resulted in this photo.

Then as I raised the camera for a better shot, she spun around,  
fleeing back inside, locking the door as she went.




That evening, as we were relaxing in a sidewalk cafe, enjoying the cool night air, 
observed these three men drinking in the cafe across the way.

The scene reminded me of the 1942 painting "Nighthawks" by Edward Hopper.
Though sitting together, each is lost in thought.
Hopper stated his painting was a commentary on the loneliness of a large city. 


We are now back in Texas, enjoying the holidays with family and friends.

A month in Spain was a memorable, relaxing experience 
for both Amparo and I, where we celebrated our fiftieth wedding anniversary.

Until the next adventure, 
ride safe, ride far, and keep clicking.

CCjon




Sunday, October 30, 2022

Valladolid dèjá vu... but different

NOTE: This is a longer than normal posting, as we wrap up our time in Spain. 
Thank you for joining us as we explored this beautiful country.

We have returned to explore more of Valladolid before going on to Madrid and our flight back to reality.
Much smaller than Rome or Madrid, Valladolid has a lot of history. Some of which is still standing, other buried or recycled into other structures. Once the capital of Spain, Valladolid has many old catherals and government buildings, some dating as far back as the 11th century.

For our return visit, we found a small third floor, one bedroom apartment across the street from the main Cathedral. From here we can explore on foot without the need of taxis like we had to do in Rome. Being in the heart of the old town offers easy walking access to the most interesting monuments, churches, dining and shopping. Old town may sound like old dusty edifices, but in reality the neighborhood is full of families, retirees, youngsters that bring the streets alive every morning, sometimes late into the night.

It's ten pm, looking down from our balcony. 
The area is very walkable.



Stepping out into the Plaza the first night, 
captured an iPhone photographer shooting the same scene.



For the next few days, I planned to sit in the Plaza in front of the Cathedral, people watch and capture their images under the watchful eye of Miguel D. Cervantes' statue. Miguel is an author from Valladolid. 
He wrote Don Quijote, Man of La Mancha.

Classic Valladolid street crossing to the Plaza



Under watchful eyes of M. Cervantes



Threatened to rain but never did



Settled in with the old folks and watched... 
people coming and going.
This was one of the few plazas we have seen that have chairs and benches.
Am really liking Valladolid. Has all the offering of a large city 
with a small town pace.



With her daily newspaper, she enjoyed the fresh air and cool weather on a plaza bench.
When did reading the morning newspaper go out of fashion?



Observed the younger generation go about doing what young people do today.



It became a guessing game: Name that person's field of study or occupation!



Or just be entertained watching them interact with each other



Watching the older generation can be interesting too.
What did he do before his iPhone?



Then another senior passes by with iPhone in hand.
Cell phones here are as common as people smoking. 
Though have not seen any retirees smoking.
Maybe smokers don't live long enough to retire?

Look at the building directly behind the two gentlemen - shades down, third floor up.  
That's where we are staying, one bedroom airbnb.

There one can hear all the sounds of life in the Plaza up there. 
We love it.



 Because parking is such a problem, most people walk, or bicycle, or scooter or... The lightweight electric T-bar scooters are gaining popularity here. Some even have a headlamp, tail light and a disk brake. 
One sees them mixing in with the cars going by just like bicycles and motorcycles.

North of the Plaza is the College of Law for the Universidad de Valladolid.
Lawyers or Professors are frequently seen walking nearby, in suit and tie with briefcase in hand.



Back in the Plaza, a teens share time together...
If it looks cool here, the temps are low to mid-fifties in the mornings, rising to low 70's by 4 pm.


The Cathedral finally opened their doors, so we could go in.

Anchoring the Plaza de la Universidad is the Valladolid Cathedral. Construction started in 1527 on the site of a former 13th century Collegiate (old royal chapel). It was completed in the 17th century. We found this church to be one of the most authentic cathedrals we have seen in Europe. No ornate artwork, no smooth marble floors, or heavy tapestry, just rough cut, hand laid local granite. 

Some floor stones even rock a bit when you step on them. Stiletto heels are not recommended. It is very obvious this Cathedral does not have a wealthy patronage. With a dozen or so different catholic churches in Valladolid, support is spread thin.

Quite dark inside, I asked Amparo to use the light on her iPhone to illuminate her face for the photo. 
That was too bright, but here it is anyways. 

This is the entry alcove, it gets darker further in. 



Had to adjust the exposure on the camera to capture photos in the dark interior.

Central Cathedral nave and altar. 
During Mass, the altar and transept are illuminated



Original Cathedral lighting fixture, still in use today.
Behind it, is an old non-original hot water radiator.



Returned the next day to get a better photo of the church altar. 
Even the gold center altar cannot overcome the humbleness of the cold granite stone.



From the Cathedral, we walked the narrow streets toward the Plaza Mayor.
Yes, cars can and do drive through here too.


One of the typical newsstands found in Europe. 
A worker refills his mop bucket from the public water fountain. These public fountains are quite common. They told us the water is safe to drink everywhere in Spain. We did not try it. 

We did see many fill bottles, draw water for their dogs or drink directly from the fountain. 
The people here love dogs as they are a common sight being walked, especially in the evenings.

We found all Spanish cities to be very clean. 
Those are falling leaves on the pavement, not trash.



After meandering through the narrow streets, we arrived at the Plaza Mayor around noon. Other than the numerous restaurants with outdoor seating surrounding the large Plaza, not much going on today.


The imposing building above is the civil government building, courts, administration, etc. 
We saw a couple emerge after being married in a civil ceremony. The family gathered to take the traditional family wedding photos in the middle of the Plaza.

Our final day in Valladolid, we drove to Rueda once more, 
then to Olmeda where we visited La Mota Castle.


Tomorrow we drive to Madrid for a few days before departing for Texas.
This trip has been an adventure for Amparo. Her first time to travel international without a daily destination, without knowing where we would be sleeping every night.

This has been a great learning experience, with many pleasant surprises, 
interesting food choices and many very nice people everywhere we went.

We could spend a month or so in Spain, using Valladolid as a base. 
Maybe in 2024 or 26...

CCjon