Monday, December 23, 2024

Valladolid, Spain - The Unfinished Cathedral

This is a chronicle, 

(No, it is a hodgepodge of reports, articles and statements made )

concerning the history of

Holy Metropolitan Cathedral Church of Our Lady of the Assumption

 of Valladolid, Spain

 

" The origin of the cathedral is linked to the history of the city. In 1074, under orders from King Alfonso VI, Count Ansurez ordered the construction of a main church dedicated to Santa Maria. The temple became a collegiate church under the care of the Cluniac monks. From this first collegiate of a single nave, only the Romanesque tower of the early twelfth century, is preserved.


Due to the small dimensions of the temple, in the 13th century, it was decided to build a larger church with three naves in Gothic style. 


During the 14th century, a series of funerary chapels were added to the collegiate church as well as a Gothic cloister, which was destroyed in the 17th century. In these enclosures were hosted councils, courts, treaty signings, the seat of the town hall, and the University...

 

In 1527 it was decided to build a new collegiate church with a different orientation from the primitive one. After Herrera and several subsequent administrators passed on, the work had barely advanced. The project was abandoned due to lack of interest and money.

 

Shortly thereafter, in 1595, Pope Clement VII, at the request of King Philip II, named the site of Valladolid as a diocese, thus converting it from a collegiate into a Cathedral."


**************************************



Our view of the Cathedral from the third-floor balcony.

The cypress trees on the right are growing where 

the north end of the cathedral was to be built.





The southern end of the Cathedral 

"Diego de Pravas was in charge of directing Herrera's plans since he was never on site. At Diego's death, his son Francisco de Praves took over. But due to a shortage of funds the work was paralyzed at the height of the Crusades.


 Of the four planned towers, only one was built: the Buena Moza (measuring about 75 m), on the left of the southern facade. But in 1841, as a result of the Lisboa earthquake of 1755, it collapsed."





"After the collapse of the left tower in 1841, work began in 1880 on the right (far) tower, with an octagonal body. In it were placed the bells (10 in total) and the clock with machinery of 1911. This Sagrado Corazon de Jesus was solemnly blessed on June 24, 1923. In total it is 76 meters high, being the tallest building in the city."

  




What are some of the details one sees when visiting the Cathedral?
The south entrance, which was once the main entrance directly to the central nave, is closed and opened only for special events.
A large projection screen temporarily covers the south entrance, promoting a special historic Christmas show inside.

 Today, the main entrance is on the east side of the Cathedral in what was to be the side entrance. It is in the middle of the long side of the rectangular layout,
according to the Cathedral's original plans.




An iron gate limits access today to a southern side door.




A smaller access door on the southern facade..
This door is at the base of the tower that collapsed in 1841.
Note: the replacement lintel above the door is of a different stone than the original masonry in the walls.



A remaining statue on the southern facade



Inside the Cathedral, the nave has not changed dramatically since it was first constructed in the sixteenth century.

The same wrought iron chandeliers that used to illuminate the central nave with candles now hold electric light bulbs. These chandeliers were lowered manually with chains to light the candles.



The stone sanctuary walls embrace a solitary altar made of silver.
This sanctuary was to be temporary, as it sits midway 
in the planned long central nave.




A tomb cover/floor stone inside the Cathedral




How many centuries, or how many thousands
 of bare feet, sandals, and shoes
have worn these steps smooth?




One of the early wood doors




A new lock on the Cathedral door looks more like a desk lock than something you would find on a massive Cathedral door.



The consolidated capital of Spain was moved to Valladolid in 1600 from Toledo, five years after King Alfonso II made a request of the pope naming this church a Cathedral.
Then, due to area water shortages, the Royal Court and the Capital of Spain was moved once again in 1606, to Madrid. 

After the royal court, with all of its attendant administrative officials, moved on to Madrid, interest and funds for the continuing construction of what was to be the largest cathedral in Europe evaporated. 

The Cathedral today is less than 50% complete, weathering, and slowly deteriorating.  Between earthquakes, being built on unstable ground, and using inferior building materials, the edifice's struggles are evident today.

Below is a view of the unfinished area (northwest corner) of the Cathedral. One can count five or six different construction styles and materials employed, revealing what has evolved over the centuries after the original construction was halted.

The conglomerate of low structures seen here, now house the Cathedral's 
display of many religious statues and paintings.




These smaller structures were built over the subsequent years using a variety of materials on the land of what was supposed to be the north end of the Cathedral.  

Here is one of the typical paving stones that were laid in and around the Cathedral. 
It appears that these weaker paver stones, 
were also used as part of the main building structure.
Were they incorporating an inherent weakness in the Cathedral structure?




Examining the stones used in the Cathedral construction, they do not appear to be of solid stable granite as found in many other large Cathedrals.
They appear more porous, not an ideal material for a tall, heavy structure.

The historical account mentioned the southern left tower collapsing 86 years after the 1755 Lisboa earthquake. That quake was thought to have weakened the tower so much that it could not be saved or rebuilt.  

Is it possible, that because of the stone's structural weakness, 
the Cathedral itself was doomed from the beginning? 
All due to the selection of less-than-ideal building materials?




Is this the only religious structure in Valladolid? No, no, there are many, many
Catholic Churches here with their elaborate naves and sanctuaries all built using the same porous stones. But those structures are a fraction of the size of the planned Cathedral.

Nevertheless, this half-finished structure,
 lacking the polish and gold of other European Churches
 that now draw tourists, still remains standing. 
It is a testament to the struggle of man,
working with the materials available, 
to erect a monument to his God.

*************

Will the Cathedral ever be completed according to the original design? Ever doubtful with today's cost of materials, labor, and declining church attendance. Kings and Popes can no longer command a church to be built with a tax on the local citizenry.

These are the tales and stories that were related to me concerning the half-finished Cathedral...
in many ways an interesting history. 
Don't you think?

***************************************


Adjacent to the Cathedral, in the shady plaza, 
is a statue dedicated to a famous author who, 
while living in Valladolid, wrote his novel... 
"The Man of La Mancha". 

This Spanish tale made the names Don Quixote, 
Dulcinea, and Sancho Panza be known worldwide.





Today, the Plaza is a relaxing oasis in a busy city 
for local residents to rest and wait.



Ride safe, Ride far... my friends

CCjon

p.s. Happy Holidays to all

Saturday, December 14, 2024

Valladolid - High Contrast Photography, Part II

Today, we have a few more city scenes and high-contrast images to share.

But first, Photo of the Week


Mallard duck guards the weathered boats.
The boats don't appear to have been used in quite a while.
Maybe she has a nest in one.


Looking down through the tree foliage, we spot people walking.
Soon these large yellow and orange leaves will soon be gone as winter is approaching.




People add blur to a slow shutter speed reflection 
of the Policia Motorcycle.




Speaking of motorcycles, scooters are seen everywhere here.
Actually, it is a smart way to get around the city's narrow winding streets.
Note: his Hippo Hands style gloves that insulate and protect his hands from the cold wind.




Catching warming rays while checking messages with his morning coffee.




Others text without Coffee




 The Mayor Bridge over the Pisuerga River




Still Water Reflection
Same river, different bridge, the Poniente.




Unusual find here, modern sculpture near the old museum.




The Colon Museum gate is closed, again. 
My timing to get inside is off.
One can see the brick building behind the gate.




Autumn has arrived, the falling leaves...
 It was a bit too cool to sit outdoors this morning with no warming sun.




By late afternoon, the clouds were gone, and the sun came out. 
Now, the fading sun reflects off the city skyline,
temperatures are dropping once again.




With the fading light, a day worker is almost home.


That wraps up today's walkabout in the city of Valladolid, Spain.

*****************


Note: I had heard about this statue called the 'Traveler' located in a remote neighborhood Plaza.
Finally found it by taking the wrong turn. 



We, too, will be the "Traveler" later this week,
 as we pack our suitcases to fly south to a warmer Texas.

Thank you for joining us as we explored this beautiful historic city
 in the Spanish wine country.

Ride safe, ride long, my friends

CCjon

Sunday, December 8, 2024

Valladolid - Spanish Doors Speak

Walked out the front door, looked left, looked right, what to photograph on today's walk... hmmm?
DOORS! That's it, doors are everywhere. Today, we'll photograph different doors... in color, too. 
Flipped the switch on the camera, now we are colorful.

Here's the selection from today's walkabout...


Old Door



New Door





Open Door




Closed Door




Castle Door





Dungeon Door




Branded Door




Shouting Door





Lipstick Door






Small Print Door




Arrows pointing to Restaurant Door





 Beer Bottle Caps Nailed to Nightclub Door



That's enough!  Time to close the door...

winding up today's walkabout in Valladolid.

Ride safe, ride far, my friends

CCjon

Sunday, December 1, 2024

Valladolid Spain - Christmas Lights

November 28th, 2024
is Thanksgiving Day in the States, here it is the day when Spain kicks off their Christmas season.

The day started with a cold damp fog blanketing the city.




With students safely in class, the parents and workers start their day.




By midday, prams and strollers start appearing.  Yes it is cool, but the sun feels good.




However...
Once the sun sets, the ceremonies begin...
starting with fireworks, Christmas carols, the lighting of displays, and colorful street lights...




Walking toward the Plaza Major, the pedestrian streets are decorated.




The Christmas lights combined with the normal cafe lights, 
create an interesting kaleidoscope of color.




In the Plaza Major, an all-lights Christmas tree, along with several religious displays, 
a double-decker carousel and numerous Market stalls welcome the people
.
 When they first opened the gates and lit the lights, 
it was shoulder to shoulder in the Plaza. Am here now after the majority of people have left.




A few of the Holiday Market stalls were still open for business. 
This stall has bagged nuts, candied nuts, candied fruit, etc, all locally crafted. 
Between now and Christmas Day, they will be very busy.




An offshoot from the main Plaza, they have their own decorations and themes.




A seller of local sweet cookies and breads is open and happy. 
Some of his baskets are already empty. Business is off to a great start.




In a different Plaza, there are other activities. 
Here a kiddie train ride was set up for toddlers and their parents




A Y intersection, two streets, two different light displays. 
An interesting intersection as cars are not allowed to go straight but must turn left.
Only Taxis, Buses, and Motorcycles are allowed to enter 
this narrower street as it goes through a very popular pedestrian area.




As the temperature drops, most people head for home as tomorrow is school and work day. 
Except for college students and young professionals 
who stay out with their friends until the cafe closes.


More photos of the Christmas season here are to follow in the coming weeks.

Ride safe, ride far, my friends

CCjon