CUBA BABY: Day Two - URAL Club of Cuba

This Thursday morning we will meet some of the Ural Club of Cuba members for a morning photo op 

then a sidecar tour of the city.

Up early, Alan sets up his camera for the day.

Our Airbnb is on the 17th floor with great views of the cityscape and the ocean.

Looking across the Vedado neighborhood,

 toward the US Embassy in Havana.

The Catholic Church across from our building was never open while we were there.

Asking about it, was told Fidel rounded up the Priests, put them on a ship 

and sent them back to Spain back in the 1960's. 

Found only one Catholic church open. It was being run by a few Nuns from the convent next door. So different from the experience in Mexico just a month earlier.

Osmany, the Ural Club President showed up with a second rig to take us 

to meet other club members for the photo op.

All of the Ural rigs here are 650cc, kickstart, old Russian military rigs that were given to the Cuban Army, then sold for scrap when the military could not keep them running. The club members cooperate with each other to keep their rigs running. Parts are an issue, so improvised solutions is the norm. When I asked what I could bring from the US for the members, they asked for headlamps and tail light bulbs. Ordered enough Hi-Lo LED bulbs off E-Bay for every club member to get one. And two dozen bulbs for tail lights and turn signals. 

Since there was still room in the suitcase, scoured through the shop's tool chests for every duplicate tool, socket or wrench I had.  Hauled them all down to Havana for the club to use.

Motorcycle helmets are mandatory in Cuba, 

not sure how much protection these local made bucket lids provide though.

Kick starting the Russian iron...

We saw many sidecar rigs in Cuba, not just Urals. 

Most are two stroke 250cc rigs from Soviet satellite countries.

We reach the gathering spot where other rigs are patiently 

waiting near the malecon (waterfront) and the National Hotel.

Smart group, they waited in the shade of the palm trees.

We quickly gather in front of the landmark Hotel Nacional for a group photo before we were shooed away.

This hotel was a popular pre-revolution night spot with the mafia 

as portrayed in the Godfather movies. 

From there we paraded around town, finally reaching a spot where we took the "Greeting" photo above,

with the old Spanish Morro Castle from 1585 in the background.

By noon, most of the members had to get back to work. 

They dropped us off at the ornate National Theater building where we could find lunch.

Before dropping us off, we were invited to join the club for a pre-planned country outing on Monday. They felt comfortable enough with us to invite us to a club social / ride event. They organized to provide plenty of food while we agreed to bring the cold beer. 

With Monday's plans set, we said our "hasta luegos".

After lunch, Alan, Marianna and I visited a Cigar factory showroom, where we could purchase and enjoy one of Cuba's finest. No, not the premium cigar of US$100 each, but the ten for $80 pack. 

We bought the 10 pack to enjoy during the rest of our stay in Cuba. 

Bringing Cuban cigars into the US is prohibited, 

as is Cuban Rum. Do so at your own risk.

Driving around, seeing the sights, we spotted a young 15 year old posing for photos for her quinceañera party.  Not to miss the opportunity to photograph a beautiful your lass, I jumped out of the car to grab this.

A quiceañera is when a young girl reaches the age of 15, her family celebrates her new womanhood. A coming of age party/tradition popular in Latin America, Caribbean, Spain and many US cities too.

Then we met a school teacher drawing water from a well in the middle of the city for his family.

The sun is bright, shadows are harsh in the middle of a hot day.

Temperature in the nineties.

On a shaded plaza bench, a young couple are spooning and cooing. 

Discreet photography called for here.

A shared sweet dessert won him a smile and admiring looks from his lady friend.

This is the dry season now, no rains until later in April or May.

The mid-day sun is intense, umbrellas are a common sight.

Hmmm... which American automobile had this hood ornament? 

There are many, many old American cars still on the road in Cuba today. More on that later.

That evening Osmany returned to take us on a night tour of the city.

He has a URAL Servicar. Have only seen photos from the URAL factory of these.

His special rig has several modifications to keep it running and functionable. 

Note a steering wheel now replaces the handlebars. Also the transmission shifter is a lever,

 not the Ural floor pedal. 

Everywhere we went the traffic was light due to a fuel shortage.

This service station was closed as they had nothing to sell today.

A common sight in Havana. Maybe tomorrow they will get a shipment. 

The station employees work for the government so they receive their wages for showing up,

even if there is no fuel to pump.

The National Hotel is well lit at night.

Young couples enjoy the cool breezes along the malecon (waterfront). 

Being a week night, not many are here. But the weekends are a different story.

We wandered around looking for that special photo op, where light and shadows come into play. 

Never once our entire time in Havana did we ever feel threatened, in danger or think maybe we were in the wrong neighborhood.

That wraps up our first exhausting non-stop events day in Havana. 

Tomorrow starts the photo workshop on street photography. 

CUBA BABY! Havana - Day One

 Greetings from the URAL Club of Cuba

The surprise trip I have been hinting at has happened, Havana, Cuba!

Have always wanted to visit Cuba, however for many years it was impossible for US citizens to travel there. 

When recently reading about a Photography Workshop in Cuba with a well known Danish photographer, I jumped at the chance to participate. While not difficult to get your VISA and necessary paperwork in order to go, it must be done correctly. So take your time, carefully read the instructions. 

Once it looked like the trip would actually happen, I made two contacts in Havana who could open doors for me. Get me into places the typical tourist would never see. First was with the president of the URAL Club of Cuba. He and I corresponded over several months, building confidence in each other. Explained why I wanted to meet, photograph and hear their stories about the club and the members.

The second contact was with a Cuban Doctor who also happened to own a 1954 Ford Fairlane that his son drives as guide for tourists. (Note: this old Ford now has a Nissan Diesel motor). The Doctor and I also corresponded over several months detailing where we would like to go, what to see and what could we bring to benefit the Cuban people. More on that later.

***************

Arriving in Havana on a direct flight from Houston, the Doctor Rafael picked us up at the airport, took us to the airBnB we had rented, drop off our suitcases, then gave us a quick orientation tour around the Cuban capital. Note: The US government has a list of hotel and restaurants that are Cuban government owned that Americans are not to patronize. We are there to "benefit the Cuban people", not their government.

I say We, as I invited a fellow Houston photo club member, Alan Wilson to go also. He and his SO Marianna, quickly accepted, but decided real Cuban Salsa Dance classes were more interesting than a photo workshop. That's okay, Cuba is a photographer's paradise as well as a dancer's dream.

So off we go the first afternoon, getting to know our way around the capital city.

Revolution Plaza, 

where Fidel Castro delivered his first speech to the Cuban people after successfully overthrowing the Bautista regime in 1959.

The main walking entrance to Old Havana, across the street from the Capital building.

A typical side street in Havana, buildings in various states of repair and disrepair.

Late afternoon shadows in the old city.

The NEW Cuban Capital Building, 

which they state is larger and taller than the capital building in Washington, D.C...

with two vintage 1950's American sedans parked under the street lamp. 

There are new cars in Havana, but old cars are what everyone wants to see. The Cuban ingenuity in keeping the old iron running when they have no access to OEM parts is amazing.

Time for our first dinner in Havana, across the street from the Capital Building. 

A trio was entertaining a sparse crowd, being a slow Wednesday night. Then we learned most Cubans dine later around 9 or 10, we walked in early, at 6:15 P.M. 

A grilled chicken breast with a side of mofongo (rice and beans).

Day Two - Thursday

Am so excited about being in Cuba, I could not sleep the first night. 

Was up at pre-dawn hours to catch this sight.

Slowly the sun rose, dawning a new day in Havana. 

I'm ready to explore.

Have many tales to relate, details to add and photos to share. Including hearing a world traveled Cuban Opera singer perform Sibony, an old Cuban love song. 

Yes, Siboney, the name we gave to our new puppy last month. 

Pure coincidence.

Sit back, relax, as I share more about modern day Cuba, 

by wandering the streets looking for photo opportunities,

 talking with people I meet, 

going for several rides with the URAL Club,

being invited into people's homes,

attending an intimate performance at the National Theater,

visiting a tobacco farm,

watch a cigar being hand rolled in the family farmhouse,

and more.

BAJA CALIFORNIA - Leaving Baja Mexico for New Mexico USA

In Todos Santos, Baja California, there is a  hotel with a famous name...

 

Many wrongly believe that this was the inspiration for the very popular Eagles song by that name. Of course, there are many stories and tales about this hotel leading many leading people to think that this is it! So tourists are always taking selfies in front of the building.

 The hotel itself no longer promotes the myth or mentions the song due to a lawsuit by the song's composer, Glenn Fry of the Eagles. Though the Hotel existed with that name back in the 1950's Glenn says he was not aware of the place, had never been there nor heard of it. 

But who allows the facts to interfere with a good story...? 

So the selfies continue...

Since Todos Santos is a tourist destination, "art" is for sale in the street... 

as well as leather goods, purses, sundresses and ice cream.

 

Still there are a few great restaurants in Todos Santos, as well as shrines to the Virgin...

 

Images of the Virgin are everywhere in Mexico, as well as in communities in the US where many of Mexican descent have settled. The skills of the artist who create these images may vary in quality, but never in their faith and sincerity.

 

After leaving Mexico, I headed northwest to the mountains of northern New Mexico for a week.

Sunrise in Gallup New Mexico was stunning, with cool temps, but still a stunning wake up view from the hotel window.

 


Trying to cross the pass between Taos and Moreno Valley, traffic came to standstill due to a two-vehicle accident just ahead. The wreckers coming to clear the road were stuck in the stopped traffic unable to move. Roadway ice was blamed for the accident.

 

Once in the Taos area, had lunch at one of my favorite spots, Ranchos Plaza Grill in Ranchos de Taos.

 

This family-owned-operated restaurant shares the Plaza with the most photographed church in North America, the San Francisco de Assis Mission. Ansel Adams photographed the mission back in the 1920's.

Inside the restaurant is a Mexican-style mural with a New Mexican theme dominating a wall. Note the original vigas (beams) supporting the roof and the thick stucco walls.  This was a person's home before being converted to a restaurant. 

 


Now safely off the road in Angel Fire,

 awoke the next morning to the aftermath of the previous night's snowstorm.

 

Which is why I trailer my rig...

Thanks for following along with my tale of riding Baja California.

Maybe next year we'll ride it together... till then, 

Vaya con Dios.

BAJA CALIFORNIA - Returning North to Bahia Concepcion

After reaching San Jose del Cabo at the southern tip of Baja, it was time to turn the Goldwing rig north, riding solo for the return trip.

How about some color photos from Baja? The Mexican people love their vibrant colors. Be it a modest casa or a storefront...

 

The GoldWing rig is handling the trip with no issues. One of the objectives of this ride was to demonstrate that a cruiser bike or a long distance highway machine can handle the Mexican highways of today. A dual sport rig is not needed. On the long flat straightaways, the GW can hit speeds equal to any US highway. Am averaging about 30 mpg... except when I twist the throttle a bit too much. 

The artwork in AirBnB motels can be eye-catching... anyone know her name? Dolores...? or Maria...? or Miranda...?

 

In the restaurant, more colorful paintings...

 

Finally reaching Bahia Concepcion to meet up with Princess Jamaica and FlyingMonkeys. The view from the rooftop deck is impressive.

 

Only three sailing rigs taking cover from the high winds these days. What is not seen in the photos is the cold winds blowing in from the northeast. Went up top to snap a quick photo then back down inside. In a few days, it will be warm again.

 


For those who drove their RV down, finding a sandbar to set up on was easy, and crowded but there are many beach spots along here. The tide does not vary enough on the Sea of Cortez side to threaten those campers.

 

Alas, FlyingMonkeys was sidetracked in California with food poisoning, ending his ride down to Baja. I thought that was supposed to happen drinking tap water in Mexico, not in the USA. Last word was, after recovering in Scramento for a few days in a very pricey motel, FM is back home in Washington. 

PJ and his wife put on a great food spread for four hungry motorcyclists and one sidecarist. Great food, cold drink, interesting conversation... was noted that among this well-traveled group, all of whom have ridden in numerous countries around the world, none could remember having an unpleasant experience with locals. In fact, most noted only help and good fortune was received from strangers everywhere.

Most people are the same as you and I, willing to help someone in true need. It's the tiny group that create the problems that dominate the daily headlines. If we believed all the negative news, no one would ever leave their homes.

Noting the cool weather here both this year and last year in early February, am thinking a mid-March trip down Baja might be a good idea. Not too hot, not too cold.

BAJA CALIFORNIA DAYS FIVE/SIX

As we reach the older southern sections of Baja, old Spanish churches are on the agenda. 

Churches over 300 years old that are still in use today, not just tourist magnets like in Europe.

In the town square in San Ignacio

 

Due to the very thick stone walls, the actual interior dimensions of the nave are narrow.

 

On the outskirts of Mulegé, another stone mission, 

 


The thick stone walls keeps the interior cool in the desert heat.

 

Of course in the evening in Baja, it's fish tacos and cold drinks on the plaza...

The San Ignacio church can be seen in the background.

 

What is the waitress at the end of the table doing.... better enlarge that image to see

 

Ah, pouring a row of tequila shooters...

Oops you blinked..., this is what a tequila shooter looks like... now!

 

BAJA CALIFORNIA DAYS: THREE/FOUR/FIVE

More photos from days 3 thru 5..

Long stretches of two lane highway, watch for potholes...

 

Sunrise on San Felipe beach

 


Tides out at San Felipe

 


When there is no PEMEX, you do what you have to do...

 

The Englishman in the group does not drink coffee, but insists on his tea everyday.
He was upset when I told him this restaurant had no "T".

 

Sunrise the next day on the way to whale watching.

 

One small boat for twelve persons...

 

Getting in was a step

 


But we got to see the grey whales up close.

 

There is a small tent camp at the point overlooking the whale lagoon. Windy but could be an interesting spot to stay for a few days.

NORTHERN BAJA CALIFORNIA - DAY THREE, or is it FOUR?

Arrived in Loreto this afternoon, after stopping to see Pricess Jamaica for a few minutes. He and I will have more time to talk next week.

Here are some photos from the first couple of days of the trip that could not be posted due to slow internet service.
 

 

A rest stop for thirsty bikers

 

What's Baja without fish tacos?

 

Group gas stop

 


San Felipe, shuttered hotel/club, lighthouse and waterfront shrine